Learning To Crochet

Slanting stitch

Learning to crochet: Slanting stitch (fig. 409).—Worked entirely on the right side. Take up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish the stitch like a plain stitch.

Learning to crochet: Crossed stitch.—The name which is given to the preceding stitch when both the threads of the stitches in the row before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.

Russian crossed stitch

Learning to crochet: Russian crossed stitch (fig. 410).—To work this stitch which runs in slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the stitches and underneath the two horizontal ones.

Learning to crochet: Counterpane stitch (fig. 411).—Counterpanes can be made in a less close stitch than those just described.

To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop, make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you have on the needle.

Knotted stitch

Learning to crochet: Knotted stitch (fig. 412).—This stitch likewise is composed of plain stitches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have described hitherto.

Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the stitch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the last two loops.

Loop stitch

Learning to crochet: Loop stitch (fig. 413).—Worked as follows: when you have put the needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the stitch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.

Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain stitches. The side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this stitch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain stitch; in this case, you should make one plain stitch between every two clusters. A loose, fleecy thread is generally used for this stitch, and for washing articles more especially, we recommend Coton à repriser D.M.C.

Plain stitches for a chain

Plain stitches for a chain (fig. 414).—Begin with two chain stitches, put the needle in between the two threads of the first chain stitch, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through in a loop, turn it round again and draw it through the two loops; then, put the needle into the left part of the stitch that was just made, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through the two loops and so on, to the end.

A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for mignardise when that can not be got of the right size and colour for the required purpose.

Go to page 3 of crochet instructions

or

Go to page 1 learning to crochet

Archery bows Archery Camping & Hunting Canning fruit Classic Car Crochet Drawing Embroidery Fencing Guitar making Hats	Knots, splices & rope work Lace Macrame Mechanical Drawing Tatting Taxidermy Tin Can Toys Watches Wood Carving Wood Joints Wood Turning