Sock Knitting Patterns Instructions Part 1

Sock knitting patterns instructions: Socks and Stockings

The knitting of socks and stockings has sometimes been thought by the amateur, and even by the experienced worker, to be a difficult undertaking.

This is a very mistaken idea for, if the instructions be followed exactly and good materials be used, such as are recommended in each pattern, the worker will not only produce a satisfactory article, but will find the sock or stocking as easy to make as the simplest garment.

Sock knitting patterns Needles

- 4 steel knitting needles with good points at each end are required for the knitting of socks and stockings. Great care must be taken to secure the correct size.

Sock knitting patterns To cast-on

- Cast the required number of stiches on the first needle. Leave the first needle (containing the stitches) and, taking the right hand (the second) needle in the left hand, continue with a third needle and cast the required number of stitches on to the second neelde, form another stitch and, leaving it on the third needle, cast the stitches on the latter in the usual manner.

Bringing the first needle round to the last stitch, and making a triangle of the three needles, look carefully to see that none of the needles or stitches are twisted.

Always cast on loosely, or there will be a danger of the foundation row being tighter than those which follow and proving uncomfortable to the wearer. As a precaution against this tendency, some knitters cast the stitches on needles two sizes larger than those to be used for the remainder of the work.

Diagrams and measurements

A diagram is given showing the shape, in outline, of each of the socks and stockings.

They have been drawn out on squared paper - each square representing one inch. The actual size of the finished sock or stocking can, therefore, be readily seen before commencing the work. In the case of ribbed knitting, where the actual width of the fabric can only be found by stretching, the diagrams have been drawn to the size they would be if knitted in plain fabric throughout. This will be found more convenient for measuring. - the number of stitches required per inch being exactly the same whether the knitting be plain or ribbed.

To obtain the scale of stitches for measurement, work, with the same wool and needles which are to be used for the stocking, a piece of plain smooth fabric about 4 inches square. Lay the tape measure over the centre of this, widthways, and count the number of stitches to the inch without stretching the fabric in any way.

Count the number of rows to the inch in the same manner. If the number thus obtained does not coincide with the scale of stitches given for the individual pattern, work tighter or more loosely as required.

Sock knitting patterns - Knitting in Rounds

Socks and stockings require to be knitted in rounds, and one round is completed when all the stitches on the 3 needles have been knitted. Always work round in the same direction, without turning (except when the heel is being made), the knitting being in progress on the needle nearest the worker, and the other two needles falling at the back.

The end of each round can easily be seen by the tag of wool left at the commencement when casting on; this tag of wool is always on the right-hand side of the first needle and on the left-hand side of the third.

The first 2 or 3 stitches on each needle should be worked closely, this preventing a loose ladder-effect appearing at the division of those needles. It is advisable to commence all socks or stockings with one or two inches of ribbing, this preventing the top of the work from curling over (it also causes the finished article to fit better in wear). The remainder of the sock or stocking can then be worked as desired - in plain knitting, ribbing or fancy patter, but in any case the heel, under part of the foot and toe are worked in plain knitting.

Socks as a rule do not require any shaping for the leg. In stockings, however, the leg always needs to be shaped to fit the ankle. This is done by decreasing once at the beginning and end of several rounds, while working a few plain rounds between each one of shaping, until the required size is obtained.

For the heel, the stitches should be divided equally, taking the first and last quarter of the round on one needle for the heel, and putting the remainder on two needles for the instep, these latter being left until the heel is complete. The heel is knitted in alternate rows of plain and purl on two needles, and the first stitch of each row should always be slipped, not knitted.

Special directions for the heel are always given with each pattern. When the heel is complete, it is necessary to knit up stitches from the side of it. This is done as follows:- * Inserting the needle through the first loop at the edge of the heel piece, pass the wool round its point and draw a loop through the one already on the needle then, dropping the latter as the new stitch is made, repeat from * into each loop along the edge. The decreasing for the instep is for the sake of reducing the stitches (on the first and third needles together) to the same number as on the top of the foot (ie, on the 2nd needle).

The length of foot is regulated by the number of inches worked without shaping between the instep and the toe (special directions always being given for the latter in the pattern).

To strengthen Heels and Toes, take a second ball of wool, silk or cotton, as prefered and knitting the heel in the ordinary way, weave in the extra thread in the same manner as for stocking tops, ie, hold the wool from the second ball over the fingers of the left hand (as in crocheting) and knit first under this second thread, then over.

In the purl rows the thread must be held at the front of the work or, if prefered, the extra thread need only be worked in with the plain rows, in this case it will need to be fastened off each time.

Another method is to slip a stitch and purl a stitch along each of the plain-knitted rows.

Sock Knitting Patterns Part 1 / Part 2

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